Sunday, July 21, 2013

Bridal Veil Falls




Towering and formidable, Mount Index is perhaps the most awesome and fiercest sight and site along US 2. But softening its stark appearance is Bridal Veil Falls. Emanating from beneath the mountain's austere crags, the tiered and tumbling cataract drapes over granite slabs. To really appreciate this plummeting waterway, however, you'll need to leave your vehicle and hit the trail. And in your journey, discover a secret - there's a beautiful lake perched beneath those rugged spires feeding those falls.

Start by following an old road lined with mossy maples and alders. Cross a series of minor tributaries. Pretty in their own right, especially after a storm, these streaming streams are also eroding away chunks of tread. Next, along a thickly forested slope, the trail gradually ascends. At 1.7 miles, just after leaving the old roadbed, come to a signed junction (elev. 1200 ft.). The trail left continues on, heading to "secret" Lake Serene tucked in a deep basin beneath the spires of Mount Index.

For Bridal Veil Falls, head right. The falls is 0.5 mile away. Just follow the roar, using a series of short switchbacks and stairways that steeply climb toward the tumult. Cross several side creeks and expect to get your feet wet. Be sure to pause for a moment or two to look back at the Skykomish Valley spread below. One last grunt and reach the first of two waterfall viewing platforms.

Except for late summer, when the falls trickle more than pummel, the roar should be pretty deafening at this point. Don your rain parka and set out on a drenched boardwalk to embrace the cascade's full force and beauty. Bridal veil? From this proximity, it's more like a bridal shower. Literally soak up the falls beauty. When you've had enough, retreat to the trail junction and make a decision. Back to your rig, or up to Lake Serene? 

Serene usually wins, so carry on. Continue on the main trail, dropping a little into a damp ravine. Cross Bridal Veil Creek on a well-built bridge, and then begin climbing. On solid tread that occasionally utilizes stone steps and rock cribbing, the trail steeply ascends. A long sweep east - then a long sweep west - the way works under, over, and around cliffs, gaining 1300 feet in about 1.5 miles. Take in fine views of the valley below as well as out to Ragged Ridge and other peaks of the newly minted Wild Sky Wilderness. 

And Lake Serene? It lies just a short distance ahead tucked in a tight basin beneath the ramparts and parapets of fortress Index. Stare straight up those 3000-vertical-foot stark walls. Hardly serene, it's more like awe-inspiring. But when the basin is calm, those imposing rock faces delicately reflect in the lake's surface. Now, that's serene and quite a sight!
















Lake Independence

Independence lake/North lake/Coal lake

Emily's birthday hike with the Starbucks crew! 

It's a tough trek up, over, and down a steep and rocky ridge to North Lake-a fair price to pay for the solitude you'll more than likely find. But if you prefer an easier adventure-one perfect for the kids and your dog-feel free to go no farther than Independence Lake. Either way, both lakes make fine destinations. Surrounded by a rugged topography cloaked in ancient forest, the setting is as wild as any along the Mountain Loop Highway, except for one noticeable difference. North and Independence lack the crowds that inundate nearby backcountrylakes.

The way begins in an old clear-cut. After a series of short switchbacks, primeval forest is soon encountered. Beneath giant hemlocks, the trail commences on a level to gently descending course toward Independence Lake. However, while the grade is easy the way is rough. Plenty of exposed roots and rocks will slow you down. After 0.5 mile, cross a rocky streambed and begin a short climb to regain the 200 feet you lost.Independence Lake (elev. 3700 ft) greets you 0.25 mile farther.

The lake sits in a rugged little basin, flanked on the west by ancient trees and on the east by rocky slopes. It's a pleasing enough spot, but the wild country surrounding Independence Lake rings out to be explored. Continue onward along the western shore to the marshy and brushy north end of the lake.

Amid a myriad of social paths, locate the trail to North Lake taking off to the northeast. On narrow but defined tread, the trail steeply climbs-its direction at times baffling. Cross scree slopes streaked with wildflower regalia, and take time to admire a massive double-trunked Alaska yellow cedar, one of the largest this side of Ipsut Creek's record-holding specimen.

Continue clamoring on the rough and tumble ascent. Reenter old forest, drop a little to cross a small creek, then resume upward mobility. Pause for a moment at a small gap to take in views that include Devils Thumb. Then work your way through heather meadows, passing a small tarn. Just off to your right is a larger tarn. This picturesque body of water, often mistaken for North Lake by wishful hikers, is nevertheless worth exploring and is a good spot for those not inclined to continue the rough journey.

North Lake-bound trekkers must still climb another 200 feet to a narrow shoulder (elev. 4950 ft) on Independence Mountain. From here your objective lies 700 feet below in a basin of glacial-scoured ledges and fields of heather. Carefully make your way down the steep path, passing tarns, talus, and cascading creeks to the secluded lake (elev. 4150 ft). There's not much room to wander, but you shouldn't have to worry about sharing this spot with too many fellow hikers.

North Lake sits right dab in the middle of a 32,000-acre roadless area. Nearly pristine and supporting prime old-growth forest and wildlife habitat, this tract would make a nice addition to the adjacent Boulder River Wilderness.

glacier swimming!